![]() I have devised a bar design using the stock mountin locations. Let's face it, these things are tuna boats. With the addition of the rear swaybar, my car handles really well for what it is. I just have "L" shaped brkts on the frt of my lwr c/arms. I had to move mine forward, only an inch or so. ![]() The calipers in the SBC kit mount to the stock 58-60 spindles, facing the front of the car. The orig (little pinner Pinto size) sway bar won't work, nor will the hvy duty bars that the Thunderbird suppliers sell. I had to have a front swaybar custom made. The down side is the orig 14X5.5 whls won't work. It has NO steering pull or other ill effects. You can be going 85 mph and stand that car on it's nose. It stops every bit is good as my 87 SS Monte Carlo. If the Squarebird were produced today, emissions aside, it is hard to imagine the pathetic brakes being DOT approved. In more down to earth terms, if someone - pedestrian or car - pulls out in front of me and I have to panic stop, the fact I am in this delightful old car will be totally irrelevant and perhaps a liability. I am reminded of the comment of the guy on 101 Cars You Must Drive when driving some 1930s gem said something like "I get a kick out of the vague resemblance of brakes"). In 1980 one could easily spend $1000 on rotors, calipers, SS lines and mc.) So I have this fantasy of 4 piston Brembo brakes hidden under my front end ready at my command. (I used to road race 750cc motorcycles where you simply could not have too much front braking power. ![]() It would be nice to have a soup to nuts list for each option (we seem to have 2 or 3 paths at this point) that hadĪnd anything else so that some guy just tuning in here for the first time could get the job done with no surprises and great results. As I live in the northeast, the idea of digging up used, rusted, 33 year old Ford parts is.well.challenging. I recall people saying you could use Ford Granada parts (I am too lazy to do a Search and hunt the threads down) but I never knew if this meant junkyard stuff or auto parts store stuff (new but aftermarket). Probably I am looking for a "conservative" solution where on the one hand I want disks but on the other want to use as much original stuff (tires for example) as is possible. On the comment abou the non-Ford hardware, what ends up showing? The master cylinder? I am guessing the calipers are hidden.no? Notes: Will fit most 14 in & larger Ford Original Disc brake wheels & some 14 in drum brake wheelsĬalipers will clear the factory sway bars, many other aftermarket kits do not.Ĭlick here to learn more about why Leed Brakes has added this warning to their products.Jim: do you replace the sway bar or have it machined?ġ4x7 means a narrower wheel, I think (14x8 is stock?) so can I keep using the same tires? (I run Diamondback radials which have about 6000 miles on them) Minimum Recommended Wheel Diameter (in): 14x7 A great kit with a factory look and easy installation! ![]() All components used in this drum to disc conversion are new high quality, precision machined products. This disc brake conversion kit is a direct bolt on with NO cutting, drilling or welding required. In this Mercury & Ford disc brake conversion kit, you receive everything you need to mount factory style 4 piston disc brakes to the original drum brake spindles currently on your vehicle. Add the safety, reliability and performance of disc brakes to your vehicle with our drum to disc brake conversion.
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